Manley SLAM! - Manual (Page 17)

XLR
PIN 1
CIRCUIT
GND
CHASSIS
GND
TRANS PARA BREAK BREAK PARA
CHASSIS GND
XLR PIN 1
CIRCUIT GND
TRANS
6414
12AT7
STEREO LINK= LEFT SIDE(SUM)
SIDECHAIN BOARD
6414
12AT7
LED LOGIC
CONTROL BOARD T&B CONTROL BOARD T&B
LINE AMP BIAS LINE AMP GAIN
MIC AMP BIAS THD
OPTO GR METER GR
ZERO
FET METER
AUDIO PEAK
FET
BIAS
BAL
GR
ZERO
METER GR OPTO GR
MIC AMP BIAS
LINE AMP BIAS
LINE AMP GAIN
FET
FET METER
AUDIO PEAK
BIAS
BAL
GR
MIC
TRANSFORMER
FET GR
TRANSFORMER
MIC
TRANSFORMER
3.3V D
BAL LINE OP
TRANSFORMER 30uF/200V
MULTICAP
22K
120-140VDC 140-170VDC
LINE
TRANSFORMER
TRANSFORMER
5V A
5V D
LINE
TRANSFORMER
FET GR
-18V
+18V
+18V
-18V
300V LED +/-18V LED 5V LED
AUDIO
SIDE CHAIN
BAL LINE OP
TRANSFORMER 30uF/200V
MULTICAP
REMOVE THESE
2 SCREWS. TOP
SLIDES BACK
22K
140-170VDC 120-140VDC
CHASSIS GND
CIRCUIT GND
ANAGRAM QUANTUM
DIGITAL CONVERTER
DAC AMPS
22K 22K
1
1
1
1 1
1
1
1
THE GUTS
1) To Open: Disconnect the AC Power cable, let sit 15 minutes to allow the power supply capacitors to discharge. Remem-
ber there are high voltages (350VDC) used in the SLAM! and that the capacitors may continue to hold a charge after AC
power and/or power supply connector is removed - Remove the two Philips Machine screws located on the perforated top
cover (towards the back). Slide the top cover out towards the back. There are 3 LEDS located towards the back and center.
They indicate capacitor charge. If one is lit , wait for full discharge and the LED to completely go out, and then it is safe.
BE CAREFUL! We suggest using gloves and/or “one hand only” when the top is off when working on tube gear.
2) Replacing Tubes: The tubes are marked as to their type 12AT7 (for voltage gain) and 6414 (for line drivers). Another
warning: Tubes get HOT. Let them cool before you attempt to touch them. Wiggle the tube back and forth as you pull it up.
If you suspect a tube, you can swap it with the other channel. If the problem follows the tube, you were right, it is that tube.
If not, try swapping another pair of tubes. It is a good idea to have a few spare tubes for emergencies as this will fix better
than 90% of most problems.
3) Trim Procedures. This is best done by a trained technician with access to specialized instruments like voltmeters and
distortion analysers. Replacing a tube generally does not require a re-calibration. Without a distortion analyser, we suggest
‘no touchy’ the trims marked THD and BAL. The full factory calibration procedure is on the following page.
4) Changing JUMPERS: There are 3 jumpers that allow for a little bit of user modification. The first is in the center and
on the left side of the SideChain board. With this jumper IN (factory set), when STEREO LINK is selected, only the left
side controls are active and are operating on a summed L&R (mono) signal. With no jumper here, both STEREO LINK
and BOTH & EXT use both sets of controls. This mode is a similar to previous Manley compressors, best for mastering,
but inconvenient. The second pair of jumpers are a grounding option and set whether the XLR outputs are PIN 1 grounded
to Circuit Ground or Chassis Ground. These are factory wired for Chassis Ground, so that hum current is dumped to chas-
sis. The XLR inputs are wired for Pin 1 = Circuit Ground because the Phantom Power return is carried on Pin 1 or ground
reference.
5) Replacing Meter Bulbs: New units like this use very long-life LEDS. For older units lamps are available from Manley
(12 volt Festoon) and available from Selco part number 19-29-39/12V. You remove the two small Phillips screws (back,
top, center) which allows you pull the white light cover panel away. Gently pry out the old bulb, insert the new one and
screw the panel back on. Note that a few of the very first units used 26V lamps and if in doubt, the volts are marked on the
bulb.
17